While Korean BBQs and Korean fried chicken garner much attention, Korean comfort food is gaining popularity. This includes dumplings, rice cakes, kimbap, and noodles, whether dry like jajangmyeon (black bean) or in soups such as kaiguksu. One very popular place for the latter is Hangari Kaiguksu.
With “kaiguksu” in the restaurant’s name and because it is located in the heart of Koreatown, you can safely assume they specialize in this knife-cut noodle soup. They are in an impossibly busy strip mall on 6th Street just east of Western Ave. I already knew the lot was serviced by a valet company that received many negative comments.
K-pop music sets the tone, and the decor is modern. Diners come with others, and the food is designed for sharing. A sign in black marker warns diners that their food contains gluten. Our server seated us and promptly gave us small plates of banchan appetizers. I appreciate when there is something to enjoy while waiting for the food to be prepared.
The word kal means knife, and guksu means noodle soup, indicating that the noodles in this soup are made by cutting them from the dough. Unlike pulled noodles, it is prepared by thinly cutting a block of dough directly into boiling water. The resulting noodles are fairly thick and chewy when cooked.
The broth is usually made with dried anchovies, shellfish, kelp, chicken, or clams, which add an umami element. The ingredients are simmered for many hours to obtain the depth of flavor. The noodles, Korean zucchini, potatoes, kabucha, and scallions are added and simmered together.
I was glad my friend and I were sharing because the Chicken Kalguksu ($20.99) was quite sizeable. A half chicken with skin on greeted me on this noodle soup. The noodles are thick, chewy, and starchy, almost like potato noodles, and the broth had a unique chicken with umami seasoning with a consistency almost like a light gravy. The kabucha squash provides a welcome contrast in flavor.
The Bulgogi Beef is pricy at $32.99 but serves two. I was pleased that it arrived in a large bowl served with other sides, such as a mound of steamed rice, mixed salad, and a small bowl of soup. The razor-thin sliced bulgogi was carmelized, incredibly tender, well seasoned, and had a nice smoky flavor. It was topped with scallions.
While we didn’t order Bossam (pork wrap), many say this is one of the must-order dishes here. Tender slices of pork belly are served with napa cabbage leaves, sweet and spicy radish kimchi, sliced garlic, and jalapenos. Take a lettuce leaf, add a slice of pork, then do whatever you desire. Ask for some samyang chili paste, which pairs nicely with the pork.
It was a fun experience, and the food was quite tasty and well-executed. Since the price was relatively high, it likely won’t be a regular destination. If you visit, remember that parking is challenging; we were fortunate to find a metered space across the street.
Hangari Kaiguksu, 3470 W 6th St,, LA; 213.388.2326; hangarikalguksu.com