Oaxacan cuisine is one of Mexico’s most varied cuisines. Well known features of the cuisine include ingredients such as chocolate, cheese, mole, and grasshoppers (chapulines). I was happy to see one such Oaxacan restaurant, Gish Bac, re-opened after being shut down due to the pandemic.
Gish Bac is owned by David Padilla and Maria Ramos who moved to LA from Oaxaca Mexico. Ramos comes from a family of barbacoa specialists and the tradition goes back three generations. Padilla and Ramos opened Gish Bac in 2010 after friends and catering customers told them they wanted regular access to the couple’s barbacoa.
Molotes is a popular appetizer in Oaxaca. The corn masa-based pastry is filled with sweet potato and fried. It is topped with refried black beans, cabbage, and queso fresco. The end result looks like an empanada, but has a tender moist exterior. The whipped sweet potato filling is a gentle way to wake up your taste buds.
Torta milanesa de pollo is a very popular lunch in Mexico. This fried breaded chicken breast is pasted with a layer of black beans and includes onions, lettuce, and avocado. Other proteins available include carne asada, al pastor, ham, tasajo (dried beef), cecina (thinly sliced marinated pork), chile relleno or breaded beef.
LA Oaxacans flock to Gish Bac during the weekends for their famous weekend Barbacoa de Borrego (lamb) or their Barbacoa Roja (goat). The portion size is quite substantial and this dish can be easily shared with others. The lamb’s exterior has a crispy texture, much like carnitas. Black beans and handmade tortillas are included.
Their mole negro is a thick black sauce that is prepared with more than 30 ingredients, including herbs and spices such as cinnamon, thyme, star anise, dried fruits, and ground nuts. It is served with your choice of dark or white meat chicken. The sauce is rich, complex and not overly sweet. It may be the best mole I’ve experienced.
Gish Bac also features the Oaxacan staple, tlayudas, a Mexican pizza that is usually topped with tasajo, cecina, shredded lettuce, black beans and Mexican crema. Soups, such as Caldo de Res (Beef) and Caldo de Pollo (Chicken) are also popular.
Prior to COVID, Gish Bac had a salsa bar for their guests that dined inside. In lieu of this experience, they included four different salsas with my to-go order.
Customers that prefer a dine-in experience, will be happy to know that they have an outdoor patio in the back of the restaurant. The patio is shaded and since it isn’t facing the street, it is quiet and conducive for conversation.
If you are the type that only frequents your favorite Mexican restaurant, consider branching out and trying Oaxacan cuisine. Discover why Oaxaca is also called “Land of the Seven Moles”.
Gish Bac, 4163 W Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90018; 323.737.5050