The entrepreneurial spirit I once had is ignited when I see an experienced chef starting out on his or her own venture. While it is a status symbol to own a restaurant, there are plenty of owners that have gone down that road unsuccessfully. A restaurant named Tolosa recently opened in Boyle Heights and caught my attention because their menu is focused on Mexican small plates.
Boyle Heights provides a good concentration of amazing Mexican fare that is difficult to find in other parts of LA. Some of the area’s best Mexican delicacies like tamales, tacos, tortas and tortillas may be found there. Tolosa is located on Whittier Blvd which is one of the main Boyle Heights arteries of the neighborhood.
Chef Steven Tolosa assembling a veggie taco
Tolosa is named after owner/chef Steven Tolosa. He is a culinary school grad and has worked at various restaurants in San Diego, Atlanta, Santa Monica and East LA. Born in East LA and raised by a single mother, he became interested in cooking from his grandmother. His observations of her influenced him to a culinary career.
Local art added vibrant color
I enjoyed the inside of Tolosa. While most of the walls are brick, the red chairs offset the starkness. Large screen TVs were on and I heard that they can pick up Dodger games. What I enjoyed most was the colorful local art that adorned their walls. Many Boyle Heights establishments support local artists in this way.
Gordita made with organic blue corn masa
My server delivered a complimentary gordita appetizer. The gordita was made with organic blue corn masa and filled with black beans. It had only a few ingredients, yet I savored the freshness and the flavor experience. On each bite of the gordita, I dipped it into the delicious green salsa and enjoyed the flavors. It is not something you will want to wolf down.
Menudo Dip Sandwich
When I saw Menudo Dip on their menu, I imagined that Tolosa created his version of a French Dip. Tolosa said “When I grew up, I used to dip bolillo bread into menudo and eat it. I thought maybe I could make this into a sandwich.” The sandwich is a bit messy to eat, but it works. The bolillo’s crust was crisp and the insides were pillowy soft. The bottom of the bread was hollowed out and he filled it with a generous amount of tripe and menudo broth. It was piping hot and delicious.
-
- Carne Asada Taco
-
- Broccolini taco with pickled onions and crimini mushrooms
Tolosa purchases his masa from a local Boyle Heights merchant and crates each tortilla using a tortilla press. Taco Del Dia varies depending on what he has to offer. Carne Asada and Vegetable tacos were the choices that day. I enjoyed both, but I thought the broccolini in the vegetable was quite remarkable. The broccolini was slightly charred. The pickled onions gave it a bit of tanginess and the crimini mushrooms imparted meat-like flavor.
-
- Calabacitas
-
- Celia’s Rice
Celia’s Rice is a tribute to Tolosa’s grandmother. Mexican rice is mixed with chorizo and the result is rather addictive. It’s no wonder he has this as part of his menu. I brought the leftovers home and my wife nodded her head and said: “this is really good, much better than the chorizo and eggs I had for breakfast.”
With the interest towards eating healthier, I am surprised that I don’t see calabacitas on local restaurant menus. This is a simple vegetarian dish made with zucchini, corn, onions, and chile. Tolosa didn’t overcook this dish and let the flavors of the vegetables come forward. I found this dish to be one of my favorites.
The late great chef Joël Robuchon once said: “The older I get, the more I realize the truth is: the simpler the food, the more exceptional it can be.” The food at Tolosa is simple, tasty and reflects this philosophy. Best of all, Tolosa uses his culinary experience to modernize the food he ate as a child.
Tolosa, 2635 Whittier Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90023
tolosarestaurant.com