Hotel restaurants aren’t usually a destination for those not staying there. These restaurants are typically owned and operated by a large corporation and usually lack the creative flair of a passionate chef. My wife and I recently learned about Polanco, a modern Mexican steakhouse inside the Ayres Hotel in Hawthorne.
The Ayres Hotel restaurant was previously called Matisse, which I sometimes frequented for lunch and special occasions. After recently visiting them, the cave-like interior remains the same. They removed the European tapestries and upgraded the vibe by adding cool blue and purple accent lighting.
As a steakhouse, I was surprised to find ceviche, aqua chiles, mussels, oysters, and octopus on the menu. These are items you expect to see at a mariscos restaurant. The biggest surprise was pescado zarandeado, grilled fish that is butterflied and grilled, a dish made famous in LA by chef Sergio Penuelas.
They source their prime beef and pork from suppliers such as Creekstone Farms, Niman Ranch, Mishima Reserve, and even an A5 Japanese steak from Oita Farm in Japan. For an additional $35, a lobster tail may be added to any of their meat entrees.
Their appetizers are sizeable. While the Spanish Octopus ($17) was fresh and prepared well, I felt pairing it with black beans, bacon, and fingerling potatoes drowned out the delicate taste of the octopus. The Ribeye Chicharron ($17) consists of seared chunks of ribeye, but what boosted the flavor was the addition of marinated red onions, and the taste of the tortillas nicely provided the platform.
The Pork Tomahawk ($40) is a bone-in pork ribeye. It was moist inside, tender, and incredibly flavorful. This may be unlike any other pork chop you may have experienced. Another prime offering is their 12 oz Ribeye ($50), a certified Prime Angus 1855. While the rectangular shape was a bit unusual, the buttery beef flavors and finish made this a delightful entree. Prime meat selections include roasted cabbage, onions, bean, and salsa verde purees.
They feature a curated selection of California wines from Napa, Sonoma, and Paso Robles. Wines from the notable Mexico region of Valle de Guadalupe are also listed. If you favor cocktails, they feature unique libations from mezcal, tequila, gin, and vodka.
If you don’t mind laying down $20 for a cocktail, you can experience one of Polanco’s Table Side cocktails. The New Fashioned includes bourbon, piloncillo syrup, and angostura bitters. The smoke from this drink gave this cocktail additional complexity.
While I enjoy modern Mexican cuisine, it is my opinion that Polanco is a premium steakhouse with Mexican-inspired flavors. The meat is of top quality and prepared well, and the cocktail menu is top-rate; items like calamari, wedge salad, surf and turf, and the Polanco burger make me feel that they cater to those not seeking an authentic Mexican dining experience.
Polanco (inside the Ayres Hotel), 14400 Hindry Ave, Hawthorne, 90250; 310.536.0400; polancorestaurantgroup