Mexico City’s powerhouse restaurant company Grupo Hunan recently opened Alma in The Grove. Grupo Hunan operates many high-profile restaurants in Mexico City, and Alma is their first foray into the US market.
Grupo Hunan completely transformed the space where Dominique Ansel resided into a stylish restaurant you might visit in Mexico City. At ground level, expect to dine on taco trios, Mexican craft cocktails, and Modelo on tap. Tacos are made using tortillas pressed fresh in-house; the trios range from Tinga de Pollo ($11) to Beef Birria de Res ($20).
When diners take the escalator up to the second floor, an airy dining room with tropical plants greets them, much like the experience in an upscale restaurant in a Mexican beach resort. There, you can watch the action in the kitchen as only a glass wall separates you. They also have space dedicated for live performers.
Beware that the servers will ask you whether you want sparkling, still, or flat water. I recently returned from Europe and instinctively said “still.” Instead of tap water, I received a bottle of Acqua Panna ($8), much to my surprise.
Our drinks that evening were hit and miss. The Las Palmas ($18) was uneventful, but the Alma Paloma ($15) was worthwhile. I’ve never had Modelo on draft before, and they had both regular and Modelo Negra ($12) on tap. I was surprised to see that Modelo Negra wasn’t the familiar amber beer I’m used to having.
The food, however, made up for the beverages. I did not expect to enjoy their Queso Fundido ($16), but they used quality lean chorizo that was incredibly flavorful.
The Fajitas ($40) (beef/chicken) were nothing like the dried meat I usually experience at other Mexican restaurants. The meat was perfectly seasoned, tender, and moist.
Unlike the crunchy grilled octopus trending in LA, they sautee octopus so that it is tender. Pulpo Cantina ($42) also includes calamari, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, and red onion. They slice the calamari rings extremely thin, making them extremely tender.
Since I favor seafood over beef, pork, and chicken, I was surprised that my favorite dish that evening was the Arranchera ($36). The marinated skirt steak was tasty and tender that you didn’t need to slice it with a fork. It was a delight eating this entree, and I went back for seconds.
While I typically enjoy watching a live music performance, we were there to celebrate my friend’s birthday. The music was delightful, but that took away from the conversation at our table.
When I was there, Alma didn’t validate parking. Instead, they asked you to visit the booth near the parking lot. Given their higher-than-average prices, I thought it was shortsighted of the management not to budget onsite ticket validation.
Alma, 189 The Grove Dr. Suite H – 10, Los Angeles; alma.mx